Tag Archives: Seoul

The Tourist’s View of Seoul

When my family came to visit this summer, we got the chance to head to some big tourist destinations in Seoul that we hadn’t been to. We even took the Seoul City Tour Bus – a hop-on, hop-off route to all the big tourist spots in Seoul- making us officially tourist material. The bus was a good way for us to get around to a few of the sites without too much walking for my jet-lagged family.

Namsangol Hanok Village

IMG_6148 copy The Hanok Village was surprisingly interesting, mostly because of our volunteer tour guide, Reggie, a high school student practicing his English and nervously sharing historical anecdotes about the different houses.  Continue reading


Korean Baseball: Fighting! Fighting!

For my family’s visit in June, we decided to head to our first Korean baseball game. After watching some games on TV and hearing from others, we anticipated Korean baseball games to be way more fun to attend than American games. We headed to Jamsil stadium to watch the Doosan Bears and the LG Twins.

IMG_6142 copy We attempted to buy tickets online in advance but never did manage to figure it out, so we just showed up at the stadium before the game and bought tickets. At first this seemed bad; the tickets were for a general area without assigned seats, and everyone was sprawled on the empty seats, which were covered with food and blankets. Families were having picnics on the upper walking-area, and I thought we were going to spend the whole game standing up, with my grandma (in her eighties and visiting Korea!) standing the whole time. Luckily, once we started asking around, families very happily moved their jackets and food and other goods and offered us seats. Continue reading

Roxie Learns About the Birds and the Bees

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When we got Roxie, she loved being outside, but long walks were not her forte.  A week after adopting her, we walked her to Olympic Park and back (about 4 miles round trip).  She slept solidly for the next two days.  Within a month we were walking to Olympic Park regularly and Roxie was ready to play again after a drink of water at home.  After that we started to work on running.  Unfortunately for me, Roxie has to sniff everything when she is with just me or just Brittany, so she can’t run alone, but if we run together, Roxie can run about a kilometer now without stopping, and anytime we go up or down stairs we go at full speed.  We always break into a run for short intervals during walks. Continue reading

Kaite Visits Seoul

Kaite Visits Seoul

On April 5th Ryan’s sister, Kaite, who was on her way to travel in Thailand, had a 12-hour layover here. We met her in the morning for a quick jaunt around Seoul.

After meeting Kaite way too early for Seoul (which usually wakes up around 10 o’clock in the morning, including the opening of Starbucks), we started near Yeouido Park, thinking we could catch some views of the cherry blossoms. But without proper research somehow never made our way to the actual park. Instead, we walked around the Han river, Kaite getting to experience the strange blend of a K-pop show and foot race.

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After a quick wander around the area, we caught a cab to Namsan, where we did find a lovely park full of cherry blossoms. Two years ago Kaite visited us in DC when the blossoms were blooming, and came just in time again this year. Continue reading

Spring in Seoul


Spring in Seoul

We spent much of the winter confused about other people’s perception of how miserable winter is in Seoul. A lot of people tended to refer to winter as a dismal, dreary, endless wasteland. Yes, it was cold; it was winter. But it didn’t seem too bad.

Until spring came. In retrospect, winter in Seoul did seem awfully dreary. And endless. Fits of giggles followed the first day I didn’t have to wear a puffy coat to walk to work and could sit outside comfortably for longer than a few minutes. Coming from Colorado, we are pretty used to winter. The problem, I think, stems more from being crammed up in our tiny, yellow-linoleumed apartment for 5 months with only the end-of-winter realization that taxis in Seoul are absurdly affordable.

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Seoul Int'l Marathon When Brittany and I showed up to the subway station, we were happy to see the carnival like atmosphere that precedes all the races I’ve ever been to.  There’s something awesome about 20,000 people getting together to be out on a beautiful day pushing through a tough race.  Everyone at a race is really in it together.  You come to admire the people you are running with.  There was the usual medley of music dancing, pre-race battle cries, and excitement all about. IMG_5799 There was something else about the runners when we got off the subway this morning.  They looked wayyyyyy more serious than me.  There were groups in matching uniforms, doing their pre-run calisthenics, people taking laps through the subway station (before running 26.2 miles!), and a whole mess of people who looked generally more prepared and serious than I. IMG_5800 IMG_5802 I had been sick all week and my butt had been pretty smashed up from a night of drunken snowboarding the previous weekend.  On the couple of short runs I took during the week, my stomach tightened up within a few miles and I felt horrible.  But by Sunday, I was mostly better, and felt like the 26.2 was a real possibility. IMG_5803 The story of my run can be told from the perspective of running lessons that I learned. When I ran a half marathon those many years ago, I was pretty motivated by the act of catching and passing the people ahead of me.  I was able to maintain a pretty good pace for most of the race just by deciding I wanted to pass everyone. So, for the beginning of my race this time, I thought I’d do the same.  I took off feeling great,  passing pretty much everyone from my starting group.  Within 10 miles I was running almost entirely with the group that started 20 minutes ahead of me, and within 13 miles I was starting to see some people from the first group to leave the starting line. At this point, I’m thinking I’m quite the badass.  I cruised the first half like nothing.  And then I had to run the second half.  After running the first half pretty damn fast (and 13 miles isn’t usually a huge run if I run at a normal pace) I started saying to myself, “I have to run 13 more miles.  That’s not good at all.” IMG_5805 IMG_5806 IMG_5808 IMG_5809 I hit a big wall long before I’ve heard the average marathoner hits the wall.  I thought there was no possible way I could run 13 more miles.  After 5 more miles the subway pass in my pocket was starting to feel real nice.  From 18 miles on the words of George Sheehan kept me from throwing in the towel: “Some think guts is sprinting at the end of a race.  But guts is what got you there to begin with.  Guts start in the back hills with six miles to go and you’re thinking of how you can get out of this race without anyone noticing.  Guts begin when you still have forty minutes left and you’re already hurting more than you ever remember.”  So with that in mind, I carried on slowly and step by step. I hit some good fortune at mile 18, when I felt my absolute worst.  A random couple was pouring out cups of Coke on the side of the road.  In desperation, I ran up and they offered me cola.  This was the first time that I was grateful beyond measure.  The next time came 2 miles later.  I left my running pack at home because I had the vague impression there would be occasional snack stops along the way, but by mile 20 there hadn’t been any and I was hurting pretty bad.  And that’s when I saw bananas.  Out loud I said “Thank you” with about as much gratitude as I have ever had.  I slowed to walk through the aid station so that I could double-fist bananas and drink 4 or 5 cups of Pocari Sweat (the Korean/Japanese version of Gatorade.) From there on it was painful but steady running. IMG_5811 IMG_5814 IMG_5815 copy IMG_5816 copy IMG_5820 copy IMG_5821 IMG_5828 copy But with just two kilometers left I saw one of the saddest things I have ever witnessed.  On the side of the road, a man wearing a clown wig, who started the day in such high spirits with everyone else, lay on the side of the road as a man desperately gave him CPR.  As there were already people attending him, there wasn’t really anything I could do, so like everyone else, I ran on.  But the I couldn’t shake the sight.  I got really faint and felt like I did a few weeks ago when I cut my finger really deep and went into shock.  I was a little bit dazed, and after slowing to a walk for a little bit, I just sat on the side of the road for awhile.  Eventually, I stood to finish the race (just in time, as my legs were ready to cramp up by the time I stood again), and I trotted the last 1.5 km in.  At the end I didn’t have the joyful feeling I had running with everyone all day.  Maybe it was my altered state of consciousness from running 26.2 miles, maybe I was just really tired, but I was still thinking of the man in the clown wig.  I walked around getting food and drink after the race almost in tears.  When I found Brittany I couldn’t tell her what happened, so I just showed off my medal and smiled, but she thought I was a little too sad for having just run my first marathon. IMG_5829 IMG_5832 As I lost my time chip, I don’t have an official time to report.  The last I looked at my watch before starting to run, it was 8:26, and I finished at 12:04, so I am conservatively reporting my unofficial time as 3:40. I’m not sure if or when I will run another marathon.  The marathon was incredibly fun, but as I said before, I really just want to enjoy running for the sake of running.  And I have definitely done that.  Last week, a friend asked why I run big distances, and I the time I just said that it’s fun when you get into it.  But there’s something very free about running; in Seoul, I go a few miles through the city, find myself on a mountain in the early morning  with only a few people around, and suddenly every step is the only thing to focus on.  Removing my focus means falling or slowing down.  When you run, you’re light, and just let your feet decide where to go. It has been a most excellent 6 months of running.  It’s been over 1,000 miles of enjoying the fresh air, exploring a new city, the occasional unforgettable adventure, meeting and running with new people, exploring my own mind and abilities, and enjoying what it is to have a body and consciousness.  I’ll still be running.  If anyone is ever in Seoul look me up and we’ll take a good run together. IMG_5836 copy -Ryan